Are you ready?
准备好了吗?

Ok, time.
Ok, 请开始计时

I think you all love coffee as I do.
我想大家都和我一样热爱咖啡

But when drinking coffee, for attribute you’re looking in a cup,
但喝咖啡的时候每个人追求的方向都不一样

For me, I love nice complicity in the coffee
对我来说，我热爱拥有良好层次感的咖啡

So this year, I visited Panama, searching for highest complicity coffee.
今年，我为了寻找最高品质的多层次的咖啡来到了巴拿马

And in Finca Deborah, I found a washed geisha.

而在黛博拉庄园中，我发现了一支水洗的艺妓豆

Deborah is a small farm, located in Volcan, it is one of the highest coffee farm in panama.
黛博拉庄园是一个位于沃岗(Volcan)的小农场，巴拿马海拔最高的农场之一

In panama, I came to realized that geisha hardly survive above 1800 meters. But when Jamison, the producer of finca Deborah showed me his farm, in elevation of 1950 meters
在巴拿马我意识到艺妓豆很难在海拔1800公尺以上的环境生存
但当黛博拉庄园的主人Jamison带我认识他那位于海拔1950公尺的农场时

To my surprise, because the geisha trees there are so beautiful. It’s unbelievable.
我非常惊讶，应为那里的艺妓树美得让人难以置信

Geisha grows very slow in this super high elevation.
艺妓在这么高的海拔生长的特别缓慢

But it was worth waiting for, because this geisha here becomes unique in its intensity and complicity.
但好东西是值得等待的
因为这里的艺妓豆带有它独树一帜的强烈风味及多层次感

The one thing about its complicity is in its floral and citrus aroma.
在其多层次的口感之中，最突出的就是它的花香还有柑橘香气

But these aroma are all small 微小分子, which are very easy evaporated when extracting.
因为香气分子都非常的微小，它在高温高压的萃取下很容易蒸散消失

So once the espresso extracted from the part, they touch the bottom of the portafilter which are usually around 90 degrees.
当浓缩萃取完后，冲煮把手的温度大约在摄氏90度

These aromas disappear very quickly, but we want that floral and citrus aroma, so now, please touch the bottom, today, I will extract every shot of espresso with cold portafilter.
这样的话会使香气散逸过快
但是花香以其柑橘橙香就是我们想要保留的
现在，请您触摸这个冲煮把手
今天我会以这样冰镇过后的把手来萃取我的每一杯浓缩

And you know when giving flavor description, for this relatively high complexity coffee, the booklet in front of you not only shows the flavors but also shows the timeline and strength.
在提供风味描述上面，对于这一支层次度这么高的咖啡来说
您面前的小册子不仅告诉您风味的描述，也提供了时间轴以及力度的说明

So as you can see, in my espresso course today, you will sense flowers in the very beginning. That the special white flowers of coffee blossom and jessamine.
如您所见，在我的浓缩项目中
一开始您会感受到花香: 如那特殊的咖啡白花以及茉莉花香

And then, High strength acidity and sweetness of citrus especially like orange and manderine
接着，柑橘调高强度的酸值和甜感会特别像柳橙和橘子

So barista champion from Taiwan, berg wu is using a very very interesting technique, cooling the portafilter..
来自台湾的冠军吴则霖采用了一种非常非常特别的手法: 冰镇把手

And I saw a lot of comments on the livestream saying that …
我在现场直播中看到很多留言表示非常的惊奇

Please take a breath to feel its floral and honey flavor in the end.
在尾韵的部分，请深呼吸来感受它的花香及蜂蜜般的香气

In order to complement these nice flavors of this geisha, today the coffee is light roasted
为了衬托出这支艺妓豆自有的风味，我们选择以浅培来处理

19 grams in, 43 grams out, to open up this full and round geisha.
19克进，43克出，来完整显现出它的圆润及厚实度

And for the tactile, you will sense medium body silky mouthfeel and with medium, long finish.
在口感方面，你会感受到中等及柔顺的触感，中等且绵长的尾韵

The small cup in front of you is for your spoon
在您面前的小杯子是提供您放小汤匙的

And please remember to take a breath for its lingering finish in the end.
请记得在最后深呼吸来感受它绵长的尾韵
请为吴则霖的浓缩项目掌声鼓励

Very interesting to see cooling down the portafilter with ice water, I’m very curious
冰镇把手是一个非常有趣的处理方式，我非常好奇，你怎么看呢?

I might be old schooled that I can’t help to be skeptical, it’s kind of the thing that go against everything teaching and been told,
或许我比较老派一点，但是我不免的要怀疑一下
因为这样的方法有点跟我们所认知到的一切相抵触

but that’s what I love about this competition that people are actually accepting to take this kind of risk. Do something and see how things affect, everything has to be aligned. Maybe it just works really well with this coffee.
但这也是我爱这个比赛的原因，吧台手愿意来接受这样的风险
做一些改变并看看结果如何受到影响，每件事都必须是互相搭配的
也或许这个方法特别适用于这支豆子

Yeah, so it’s actually very interesting to taste his coffee, because I’m the same, I never get a good results from cooling down the porta filter, I tried several times before but it’s difficult so im very curious.
是的，所以品尝这咖啡应该是非常有趣的，因为在我过去的经验中，如果以凉的冲煮把手来萃取的话结果通常都不太好
我曾经试过几次，但是都没有获得很好的结果，所以我非常的好奇

But it could be that his coffee just needs to be brew at a lower temperature. And affected by cooling down the porta filter. It would probably influence the temperature to bring down just one degree c or 1.5~2 degree c that his coffee just really shines.
但也有可能是这支咖啡需要以较低的温度萃取
藉由冰镇把手来影响萃取时的温度并降低1.5~2度
来使这支咖啡达到最完美的萃取

So the coffee that his using is from panama, finca Deborah, I actually have the chance to working with Jamison for last couple of years. It’s a beautiful farm, and it’s actually higher than the typical farm.
今天他所使用的豆子是来自巴拿马黛博拉庄园的
我刚好有幸能跟Jamison在几年前一起合作
黛博拉庄园是个美丽的农场，其海拔比其他典型的咖啡农场都来的高

And now, please turn to the next page, for my milk beverage. Thank you.
现在，请您翻页并来到我的牛奶饮品项目，谢谢

Sitting up in 2000 meters. I did see Jamison earlier.
坐落在海拔2000公尺处，我稍早有见到Jamison

I think too much foam will 影响you from sensing the delicate flavors of this Deborah geisha.
我认为太多的奶泡会影响您对于这支黛博拉艺妓豆的细微风味的感官

So my foam today will be about 0.3 centimeters and silky to create a transparent and milk tea like texture.
所以今天我使用的奶泡大概会在0.3 公分左右
滑顺的质感来创造出透明度高的奶茶口感

My milk beverage for today will be 150 ml, the organic milk is sweet and has long finish itself.
牛奶饮品的部分我会使用150 毫升的牛奶
我所使用的有机牛奶自带甜感及绵长的余韵

So I grind finer and extract my espresso shorter to get more citrus flavor
我会将我的咖啡再磨细一点并萃取少一点来得到更多的柑橘风味

So in my milk beverage, you will sense madrine flavor in the beginning.
在我的牛奶饮品中，您一开始会得到橘子的风味

And the follow with delicate sweetness like toffee with earl grey milk tea finish in the end.
接着伴随着如太妃糖及伯爵奶茶的甜感尾韵

It’s very interesting to hear about his milk beverage and about he’s going to pour milk about 0.3 centimeters. Very specific.
听他解释他的牛奶饮料只要约0.3公分的奶泡是很有趣的
非常具体

Yeah, that’s impressive. I wonder what kind of ration he uses.
是的，令人印象深刻
我想知道他用的是什么样的比例

Apart from the elevation and variety, we all know how processing can affect a cup. So in finca Deborah, the cherries ripped and picked, Jamison mechanically removed the mucilage and placed the coffee on African bed in the green house for drying.
除了海拔高度和品种之外，我们都知道处理方式会影响风味
因此，在黛博拉庄园中咖啡樱桃成熟并挑选过后
Jamison机械地去除果肉层并将咖啡放在温室中的非洲式层架上进行干燥

Now drying is very important here. the African bed has three layer on the top, the bottom with different drying temperature for high to low.
干燥在一部分来说非常重要
非洲式层架有三层，每一层从高到低都有不同的干燥温度

First the coffee are dried on the top layer for just one to two days to remove the moisture very quickly, and this is to reduce that transit that coffee deliver and odd flavors.
首先，将咖啡在顶层上烘干一至两天，来迅速去除水分
这是为了减少咖啡生成其他奇怪的风味。

And then moved the coffee to the second layer for seven days and the lowest layer for another seven days.
之后将咖啡移至第二层七天后再移到最后一层七天

The coffee is layer to dry nice and slowly in sixteen days and this drying process bring the sweetness and the in the cup.
咖啡在16天之中缓慢的干燥，这种干燥过程也将甜味和醇厚度带入咖啡中。

So you are very familiar with this coffee eh?
所以你对这咖啡很熟悉吗？

This cup is not just pretty. It’s also thin enough for you to sense its transparent in the milk tea like texture.
这支豆子它也有适当的薄度，让你能感受到奶茶般透明的口感

Yes, so finca Deborah actually has its first harvest last year.
是的，黛博拉庄园去年是第一次的收成

The geisha coffee trees from the farm, Jamison separates his brown tip and Green tips
在农场中的艺妓咖啡树，Jamison将绿叶尖艺妓和其他的品种分开种植 (注一)

In another region, the green tip is actually grown higher than the brown’s tip but Jamison is doing 分类 by picking He’s doing something that I haven’t seen before, he’s monitoring the temperature. The entire farm the humidity is so in condition. He’s doing … in analysis.
在另一个地区，绿叶尖种实际种植区高于褐叶尖
Jamison透过过有意识的分类挑选
他做的事是我以前从未见过的，他观察温度及湿度等等
整个农场的湿度都维持的很好，也做了很多分析

Yeah, absolutely unique approach.
绝对是很独特的方式

So, to complement the sweetness and the body brought up by a dryer process, when roasting, we slow down the RoR, the rate of temperature rise during 150 to 160 degrees.
为了衬托出干燥处理过程中带来的甜感和口感
烘豆时我们在150~160之间降低RoR（温度上升速率）

To increase more mallard reaction.
来增加梅纳反应

And I really really like the madrine flavors of this milk beverage.
我非常喜欢在这牛奶饮品当中的柑橘调

And I think you will love it. Enjoy it.
我想您也会喜欢的，请享用
请为吴则霖的牛奶饮品项目掌声鼓励

So for the milk drink, he’s using 150 milk, is that correct?
在牛奶饮品中他使用了150克吗?

I think so… I think I missed that part. The total is 150 milk
我想是的，这部分我有点漏掉，但总得来说是150克

Ok, so that’s about a cappuccino kind of way the ration,
所以大概是类似卡布奇诺的比例

He also control how to steam the milk as well.
他同时也很好的控制了打奶泡方式

He pays a lot of attention to the details
他很重视细节的部份

It sounds very delicious with the madrine
柑橘调听起来非常的美味

Please turn to the next page for my signature drink, thank you.
在个性饮品的部分请帮我翻页，谢谢您

It’s really nice to see even though he’s really focusing in technical about extracting his coffee,
他非常专注于萃取咖啡的技术

To the perfect complexity of this coffee, I always think of explosive aroma and full and round fruitiness and must have long and lingering finish in the end.
为了得到这杯咖啡最完美的多层次感，我希望能萃取出爆炸般的香气、圆润饱满的果香且拥有绵长的尾韵

But the dilemma of this espresso exists, when extracted cool coffee like this Deborah geisha, maybe we can extract shorter, but that will sacrifice the lingering finish.
但进退两难的地方就在于当萃取这一支黛博拉艺妓时
我们可以缩短萃取时间，但这样会牺牲掉绵长的尾韵

Or we can extract longer, but that will sacrifice the aroma and the fruitness.
或者我们延长萃取时间，但这样就会牺牲掉香气以及水果般的风味

As a barista, we are always looking for the best point of balance. Or to be honest, we are just trying to sacrifice less.
身为一位吧台手，我们总是在寻找最好的平衡点
或者坦白说，我们在找出能牺牲最少的方案

But today, I want to use my signature drink to create the perfect complexity of finca Deborah.
今天，我想要利用我的特色饮品来为黛博拉庄园的艺妓豆创造出最完美的层次感

So it means, you will sense explosive aroma, full and round fruitness and have berry long and lingering in the end.
也就是说你会感受到爆炸性的香气，完整圆润的果香和绵长的莓果余韵

And now, let’s rewind, start from the finish. The recipe of this espresso is 19 grams in, 51 grams out.
现在让我们来倒带一下
现在的比例是使用19克进，51克出

It’s a longer shot than the espresso course, so we can get a even longer and lingering finish.
是一个比浓缩项目来的长的方式，所以我们可以更凸显出咖啡的绵长余韵

So for the signature drink the espresso he’s using the 19 grams in, 51 grams out. That’s a pretty big espresso
在特色饮品中的浓缩採用19克进，51克出，是份量蛮大的浓缩

Yeah, it’s actually very big and it’s really nice to see how much flavors he can open up out of this farm extracting one shots.
是的，而且能够看到它在这个农场中有这么多的风味是真的很不错

And next, its fruitiness, I want to use these two ingredients to showcase the shorter extraction of finca Deborah.
接下来是它的果香味
我想利用两种原料来展示如果萃取时间较短中会突显出的香气

So the first one is 15 grams orange juice and honey reduction, with the ratio of 10:1, hit up to 80 degrees and concentrate to 15 percent.
第一个是15克柳橙汁和还原蜂蜜
比例为10：1，在80度的状态下浓缩至15％

To emphasize this Deborah geisha’s juicy citrus acidity but without caramelization.
来强调这支黛博拉艺妓豆多汁的柑橘酸值而不使其产生焦糖化反应

And then 15 grams of cold brew earl grey tea, I use four grams of tea leaves and 100 grams of water, cold brew for four hours under 10 degrees.
15克冷泡的伯爵茶，我用4克茶叶和100克水在10度之下浸泡四小时

To emphasize this Deborah geisha’s citrus flavors, but without astringency.
来强调这支黛博拉艺妓豆的柑橘调，但不会产生涩味

And also, earl grey tea flavors can let the fruitiness and the lingering finish of this Deborah geisha connect to each other.
另外，伯爵茶的风味可以让这支黛博拉艺妓豆的果香和余韵相互结合

And the last, is aroma, I will redo the aroma by 1 drop of jasmine and 1 drop of madrine essential oil into this aroma defuser then guide the aromatic air in for 5 seconds.
最后，是香气，我透过一滴茉莉花和一滴柑橘精油重新制造香气
并利用扩香机将香味导入五秒

And I want this aroma to become part of the flavors correcting with this Deborah geisha’s floral and citrus notes.
我希望这样的香气可以和这支黛博拉艺妓豆的花香和柑橘调相互作用

So I use this perlini shaker, with cream charger to insert 2 ml of nitrogen to increase the pressure and to mix all the ingredient together.
我利用Perlini Shaker 和灌气枪来加入2毫升的氮气
增加压力并将所有的原料加以混合

Quickly infused the aroma into the drink, this signature will be lukewarm 微温的 with smooth textures
将香气快速地注入饮料中
这杯特色饮品会是带有柔顺口感的微温饮品

And the curves of the cup and let the liquid slides into your mouth and cover your .. smoothly to let you sense its complexity.
较薄的杯缘和材质可以让液体自然的流入口中
让您感受到其多层次的复杂性

When you get your drink, please just drink it right away,
当我递给您时请尽速的品尝

You will sense jasmine and madrine in the very beginning.
起初您会感受到茉莉花香以及柑橘香气

And follow with very full and round bergamot orange
接着是非常饱满且圆润的佛手柑香气

After you swallow it, please take a breath, you will feel floral honey like finish in the end.
在您吞咽后，请深吸一口气，你会感受到类似花香蜂蜜的尾韵

This is finca Deborah, this perfect complexity and I think you will love it.
这就是黛博拉庄园，完美的多层次感，我想您会喜欢的

Thank you.
谢谢您

So, enjoy the day, I’m berg wu, from Taiwan. Thank you, time.
请享用。
我是来自台湾的吴则霖，谢谢您。
请停止计时

注一: 这里我没有听得很清楚，但是大致上是在介绍黛博拉庄园，以下提供几个传送门给想要多了解的朋友们，顺带一提，2017WBrC的第二名Sam Corra 也是使用同一庄园的豆子

翻译：崔晓源
专业顾问: 陈永铮
P.s. 因为是人工听写，虽然尽力了但还是有很多地方没有听出来，真的很抱歉，也希望如果有听出来错误的朋友们可以留言指正，谢谢!